Kenya Exploration Part 3: Overland Safari
Check out Part 1 & Part 2 of our Kenya Adventure.
Our guide from Albatros Travel met us early the next day and we set off on a three hour drive west towards Kenya’s largest national park, Tsavo West, at more than 11,000 square kilometers (more than 4,200 square miles). Entering the park, we immediately saw one of the country’s many species of antelope. We had a few sitings of gazelle, hartebeasts, and zebras as we made our way through the park and then as we neared our destination for the night, Satao Camp, we came across a large watering hole with several groups of elephants playing in the water.
The camp consists of a number of large tents (really cabins with canvas walls and stone floors and thatched roofs) facing a watering hole. Upon arrival, we headed for a delicious buffet lunch where we were joined by several species of birds vying for crumbs and scraps including the very entertaining hornbills and vulture guinea fowl. Sykes monkeys also lingered about and a large group of impala were spread throughout the camp, while a group of mongoose were spotted in the camp in the morning.
Elephant in Tsavo West
Impala outside the window of our tent
We digested on our tent porch watching animals visit the hole including an elephant and a group of baboons. Occasionally we heard the bellows and grunts of the watering holes’ resident hippos though we were not to catch one this day. We headed out for our second game drive of the day, finding our first giraffe and many species of birds including ostrich, storks, kori bustards, and brown snake eagles. After another great meal, Dan and I settled in front of the fire for a sundowner and reflection on a fabulous first day of our safari.
On day 2, we headed out for another game drive at Tsavo East and then headed further west to the Lumo Community Wildlife Sanctuary, where we stayed at the incredible Cheetah Camp, overlooking a gigantic expanse of Tsavo West National Park and Mount Kilimanjaro (though clouds obscured that view this day). The view from the restaurant and rooms was one of the best I’ve ever seen, only surpassed by the incredible food and service at the camp, by far the best we ate on the entire journey.
After a break, we headed out late afternoon for a game drive through this sanctuary run by the local community, famous for its big cats including lions, cheetahs, and leopards. Shortly into our drive, we spotted a group of safari vehicles stopped on a side road. They were watching a pair of lionesses from a respectable distance and we stopped alongside to catch glimpses of their black ears as they peeked over the grasses. From there, we headed to the aptly named Lion Rock, a prominent overlook popular with these big cats as lookouts for their hunts. Sure enough, another female was resting atop the rock, her tawny fur lit up in the fading sun. We watched as she hung out and then walked around a bit before heading over the rock out of view. There we also spotted a pair of rock hyrax, a surprising close relative of the elephant though it looked more rodent than pachyderm.
Lion in Lumo Community Wildlife Sanctuary
Cheetah Tent Camp
Following a stellar breakfast, we headed out for a morning game drive and then headed on a short drive through Tsavo West on the way to our next destination, Severin Camp, located inside the park. Animals were more challenging to find in the park’s dense green vegetation, a start contrast to the dry brown grasses and red mud of Tsavo East. We arrived to the camp to find a group of very active yellow weavers building nests in a small open space by the restaurant. Each tent in this camp has a watering hole, making very personal viewing of wildlife.
The highlight of the afternoon highlight was a visit to Mzima Springs, one of the few opportunities to get out of the vehicle and walk around. We followed a group down a stone path to a fenced overlook of the springs to spot a Nile crocodile bathing in the water flow of the creek along with a bunch of hippos. It was hard to imagine that the languid hippos floating about are probably the most dangerous animal around but the key is to avoid their territory and everyone will be happy. The tour group left and we had the spot to ourselves to observe the hippos in the late afternoon light and breathe in the fresh humid air. A mother and baby sykes monkey paid a visit as we left. We were also treated to a great siting of two beautiful black backed jackals.
Hippo at Mzima Springs
Giraffe at Tsavo East National Park
After breakfast, we explored the park’s volcanic landscape with past lava flows and many cones dotting the view in all directions. We then headed for the two-hour drive to our final safari camp, Elerai Camp, the closest to Kilimanjaro, the dominating volcano just across the border in Tanzania. At about 4,500 feet, the air was at the camp was a bit cooler and more crisp and the lodge reflected a more mountain feel with a fireplace. The luxurious tents are situated to face the mountain for the best views, though so far the clouds had obscured the view. The camp’s pool and restaurant overlook a watering hole which was visited by an elephant that late afternoon.
Instead of an afternoon game drive, we opted to take a short bush walk with a local Masai guide. Setting out from the camp with guardians both in front and back to ensure safety, we took a loop through the vegetation to learn how this extraordinarily productive ecosystem works. We saw a termite mound to learn how many animals depend on these insects as well as how elephants dominate the landscape by breaking tree branches and carving out their paths to watering holes. One of the most interesting parts of the tour was learning about the traditional medicinal plants used for centuries by Masai tribes in the region as well as a bit of an unexpected astronomy lesson.
As we walked through the grass, we were finally treated to the incredible view of Kilimanjaro, the tallest mountain in the area at more than 19,000 feet elevation. Dan reminisced about his poorly planned but still pretty incredible ascent of the mountain forty years prior. Despite a lack of equipment or knowledgeable guide, his group of 3 made it up and back in 5 days.
View of Kilimanjaro from Eleria Tent Camp
Elephant in Amboseli National Park
Our last day of safari ended at the extraordinary Amboseli National Park, one of the country’s smallest but most densely populated with wildlife. The park’s varied landscape including savannah, lakes, and wetlands provides habitat for many species and the wide open views make for great wildlife watching. Shortly after entering the park, we were treated to a fascinating visit of a large bull elephant visiting a troop of adult female and juvenile elephants. After checking out the females, the solitary male decided to part ways and keep searching for a new troop to visit.
On the game drive that day, we saw several animals we hadn’t seen elsewhere, including spotted hyenas, the beautiful crested crane, and the African fish eagle, along with a couple more hippos (out of the water this time), many cape buffalo, and many species of birds. After a picnic lunch, we visited a small traditional Masai village just outside the park. Our guide showed us a traditional dance, took us on a tour of the village and spoke about their traditional medicine, and shared their beautiful crafts.
From there, Dan and I headed back to Nairobi, arriving in time for dinner and rest before we left this magical country. Over the two weeks, we visited six of our local partners in seven coastal communities, learning about how sea turtle conservation and community development works in this West African country. Our safari took us to four camps in four nights, spotting more than 20 species of mammals, well more than 30 species of birds, and others. We were inspired by all of the community groups we met working hard to restore the country’s coastal habitats. We learned about the cultures of several of Kenya’s tribes and the history of this fascinating country.
We can’t wait to offer this unique exploration of Kenya in February 2026. Expect a slower pace than we took with multiple nights at each stop, visiting three coastal communities and three camps over two weeks. This trip will inspire awe, add to your wildlife bucket list, and generate tremendous support for our partners, their local collaborators, and for conservation efforts.